Jonathan Gold's favorite Los Angeles burgers (not made in a lab)
Rohit Khare stashed this in Food
Not a test tube burger, but a burger as reimagined by a gearhead working alone in his kitchen instead of by a team of technicians in a lab, Ernesto Uchimura’s Plan Check burger is a griddled patty layered with translucent ketchup leather, a microscopically thin layer of crisp, fried cheese, and shaved pickle. The feather-light bun, distinctly not made from brioche, is sprinkled with white specks that look like sesame seeds but crunch like breakfast cereal. A fudgy layer of house-made American cheese, which incorporates a subtle, almost indiscernible umami jolt of Japanese kombu seaweed, frosts the patty, but what you are aware of when you bite into the burger is salt and juice and the crunchy char of well-cooked meat. The Plan Check Burger has been carefully engineered to resemble the great bar burgers of your youth, in the way that a designer at Ford might try to capture everything you love about a 1968 Mustang in an ultramodern car. 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 288-6500,plancheckbar.com.