Mark Healey Caught Inside At Mavericks
J Thoendell stashed this in Awesome
*Everyone* gets caught in side at Maverick's eventually. It's a fickle break.
That's actually a pretty benign wave. What the video doesn't show is in big wave surfing, there's a period of time in tens of seconds that feels like minutes when you are at the top of the water after being completely shock-and-awed by brutal force, but you need to climb your way through 10 feet of foam still above your head that you can't float on just to take a much needed breath. By the time the foam dissipates and you can breath, the next wave in the set is there to piledrive you right back down. This happens two or three times in the best circumstances; five or six in the worst.
It makes my heart beat faster just thinking about it!