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Todos Santos Super Session - Transworld Surf


Stashed in: Tasty Waves!

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Reading the comments is funny...anyone who has been there has had the same experience: 1) The boat captain tries to rip you off, and 2) everyone has almost drowned there. 

If you get caught inside, you end up on boulder sized rocks that are slippery as ice. As you are scrambling over them to get back to the channel while trying not to ding your board, up to 6 feet of whitewater will come mixing your around like a witches brew just to keep you real.  Shins beware. 

Geez, you have to be crazy to even consider this!

Or young and stupid! My big wave career has been over for 25 years. :-)  You know what's funny though?  We didn't have the same technology or safety net as they do now.  

True. So is it as dangerous as it seems?

I'm not a good judge. 

Me neither. 

You almost drowned yet you kept going out?!

Lol...yeah.  There's nothing more fun than lucking into a wave that's bigger than a swimming pool being turned over on its side and being shot at you.  Some people think courage is a big surfing gun in your hand.   It's paddling in and knowing your licked before you being, and you paddle in anyways and you commit to dropping in no matter what.  You rarely pull it off, but sometimes you do. 

It all goes back to my theory that surfers make the best entrepreneurs!

Surfing Your Way to Entrepreneurial Success (Or Die Trying), by Dr. Gregory A. Bolcer.

Well, on the general scale of things, it's far less dangerous than snowboarding off the top of Mt. Everest.

image-53078e7715d30-0Rlp.jpeg

I didn't even know that's a thing.

Very few people live to tell about it.  In fact, no-one so far. 

No one? As in, it's impossible to survive?!

Wow, fascinating. Rohit was skeptical that even one person had tried it.

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