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Five Dishes That Will Make You Forget About Beef

Alan Richman on the Vegetarian Revolution in Fine Dining


Five Dishes That Will Make You Forget About Beef

1. Salt-Roasted Golden Beets, Vedge, PhiladelphiaBeets below, beets above. The beets go on....

2. Watercress Soup, Joe Beef, MontrealSoup prepared with ham broth topped with toast, aioli, and sautéed escargots.

3. Eggplant Parmigiana, Lincoln, Manhattan; and Leo's Latticini, QueensAt Lincoln, Chef Jonathan Benno's version is almost home cooking. At Leo's Latticini, Marie DeBenedittis prepares hers non-gooey but still cheesy.

4. Agnolotti, Spago, Los AngelesWolfgang Puck's ravioli-like packets are stuffed with chestnut puree and mascarpone cheese.

5. Black-Cabbage Galette, Dovetail, ManhattanJohn Fraser's galette is brilliantly buttery, and his cabbage straight from paradise.

Stashed in: Good Eats!, Vegetables!, Vegans!, Yum

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Veggies are fighting their way to the center of the plate:

Until recently, few chefs had come close to unlocking the genetic code for transforming vegetables into satisfying main courses. Those who tried were considered freakish, like the alchemists who tried to change lead into gold. Finally, Cohen and other chefs have created the soul-satisfying entrée that is not a half pound of beef. "Vegetables," she says, "are the Wild West of cooking."

These guys should travel farther West, and find Asia, where people have been vegan for centuries.

Which part of Asia?

At least India and Nepal.