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Jonathan Gold's favorite sushi restaurants

Jonathan Gold's favorite sushi restaurants -,6560625,1546782.story

Does Mori Sushi serve the finest traditional sushi in Los Angeles? Does the staff spend as much time thinking about the rice as most of its competitors do about their fish? Is the juxtaposition of Santa Barbara uni and Hokkaido uni equivalent to a graduate-level seminar in sea urchin roe? How many needlefish is too many needlefish, or is such a concept even possible? You may prefer the sushi at Zo, Nishamura or Urasawa, but know that Mori's partisans are ready to fight you to the death.

11500 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 479-3939 

Stashed in: Good Eats!, Hollywood, Seafood

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You will pay more than a thousand dollars for dinner for two, sometimes way more if you have expensive tastes in sake, and your experience will be directed with a severity of which other sushi chefs can only dream. The sashimi is presented on a kind of carved-ice stage and glows as if it were in a Terrence Malick movie. You will eat beef and chawan mushi and other things you may not associate with sushi because this is less a sushi bar than a kind of kaiseki restaurant, exquisitely seasonal, where you will experience translucent petals of fugu, odd crabs and delicately scented Japanese leaves when they enter their short seasons.

That image is beautiful.

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